More wacky sculpture

June 3, 2008

Another wacky student sculpture found in the Murphy Hall Courtyard, University of Kansas campus, Lawrence, KS.

Well, not found there any more.  I went back a few days later to find the name plate and get the right credits on this and it had been removed.

First time I went and looked close at this thing I noticed a squirrel was sunbathing.  It had stretched out along the right “shoulder” of the sculpture and was just soaking it up.  Campus squirrels are pretty tame little buggers.

Statue Guy

Senica 8×10, 14 3/4″ lens

ERA 100 @ 80, Pyrocat-HD 2:2:100, 8min in Jobo CPP2

Proof print on Arista Edu.Ultra (foma) VC (grade 2) RC paper.


Finally saw it happen with Pyrogallic acid developer!

June 3, 2008

My photo technique goal for 2008 has been two part. First part was to get more comfortable with my 8×10 camera. The second is to learn to use Pyrocat-HD as a developer. Combined, these two goals are so I can get back to alt-process printing with Cyanotype, Salt Printing and Albumen. One thing I read about Pyro based developers but had yet to see was the “bas relief” effect in the negative. As the gelatin tans, the legend says, you can see the image in a faint bas relief from the emulsion side. Finally saw that happen with on of my 8x10s. While not the greatest negative ever made, I finally saw the effect. Neato! The negatives were made out at the Baker Wetlands, just to the south of Lawrence, KS. Mostly I was out for the exercise. Physical exercise ’cause I need it. And the mental exercise of working with the 8×10. Setting up, learning to see how the 14″ lens sees, that sort of thing.


Proof prints:

   Footpath Looking East  Birdhouse

ERA 100 @ 80, Pyrocat-HD, 2:2:100 8min, Jobo CPP2

Printed on Ilford MGIV WT (old stock), selenium 1+3, 5 minutes

Nothing spectacular about either composition but the birdhouse negative is the first one where I actually saw the bas relief effect. 



Is Polaroid still dead? Yep. But it does nice work for a dead medium!

May 11, 2008

Finally got some time outside with the 8×10 and Polaroid 809. I think I have my three 8×10’s ready for the APUG Ode To Polaroid print exchange. Next up is to mount them and prep for shipping.

Singing Sunflower

Student sculpture at The University of Kansas, Murphy Hall courtyard


Polaroid is Dead. Long live Polaroid.

April 5, 2008

Finally, a reasonably decent day with enough sunshine to go try my Polaroid 809.  What is Polaroid 809 you ask?  It is 8×10 color instant film.  Requires a special holder and processor to pull the negative, positive receptor sheet and chemical pod through the rollers.  I have on loan from Alex Hawley a holder and tabletop processor.  Thanks Alex.

Loaded up the Seneca Improved View 8×10, installed the Leclair 13″ brass lens and with the judicious use of rubber bands and a Lee filter holder I can put the Packard shutter on the front of the lens.  With the camera racked out to about 20″ and some quick calculations, 1/3 second exposure is called for.  Except I can’t really guarantee anything that quick with the Packard.  Mine doesn’t have the “instantaneous” mode so best I can hope for is something under 1/2 second.

Not bad, a bit over exposed but what the hell, it worked!  Only screwed up twice getting to this point.  27 more sheets to go!

Three Amigos


A bottle of snot!

March 30, 2008

Saturday I acquired a bottle of snot.  OK, not really a bottle of snot but that is what a bottle of Liquid Light emulsion reminds me of as I melt it out and divide it into smaller containers.  I went to the local camera store to have some color enlargements made and noticed they had a bottle in their little display fridge.  Turns out it was expired so they discounted it by 50% and Becky bought me the bottle for my birthday present.

I’ve melted out about 1/2 to 2/3 of the bottle into a collection of black 35mm film cans.  I then took one of the cans and diluted it about 2 parts snot to 1 part photoflo (working strength).  This I kept on the hot plate and melted down further while I coated several sheets of watercolor paper.  After a little bit more drying time I’ll slip the paper into some black bags so I can play with it tomorrow.

This should be very cool.  Some of the sheets coated nicely, at least it looks nice under the safelight.  A few of them I think the gelatin started to set while I was brushing and so they may have some emulsion balls stuck to the surface.  Almost like trying to spread out rubber cement.


Fuji Transfers

March 29, 2008

Not the greatest day outside today. I had hoped for some sunshine because I wanted to get a jump on some 8×10 Polaroid work for the Ode to Polaroid exchange at APUG. But no such luck.  So instead I decided to take another stab at using Fuji FP100C for emulsion transfers.

I don’t have a Daylab or 405 back so I make the images in-camera.  This time I decided to use FrankenRoid which is a pinhole MP4.  Get out the rubber duckies and barrel of monkeys, turn on the Wagner and create!


6 minute exposure with heavy overcast.  20 seconds development, then peel and place on the Arches Aquarelle (hot press).  Roll for 1 minute, single direction, with a hard brayer.  Important that the peel and place be done in the dark or with a dim safe light.  Once down, the back of the Fuji is light proof so the lights could be turned on, I just worked under the safe light the whole time.

Fuji FP100C has a very pronounced blue shift for long exposures so I was to use a Daylab I might want to adjust the color pack to be a little minus blue.  There are some good discussions of this technique on http://www.flickr.com and http://www.apug.org  .   Both sites have search functions so key words like “emulsion+FP100” or “fuji+transfer” should help find them.  I just feel lazy right now and so don’t have links to include in this entry.


Long exposure

March 19, 2008

OK, so how does a 3 month exposure grab you?


solargraphy_web.jpg(the “positive”).

Step 1: Stumble across interesting site where a woman has gathered lots and lots of 3 to 12 month exposure pinhole pictures and decide to try it. Also be sure to loose track of the link so you can’t find it again later… (Found it! http://www.solargraphy.com)

Step 2: Put a sheet of black and white photo paper into a pinhole camera made from a clean quart paint can.

Step 3: Strap said camera to side of deck, facing out across the back yard and to the west.

Step 4: Wait three months.

Step 5: Retrieve camera and remove “film”.

Step 6: Straight to the scanner, no developer bath (it would go black after all).

Step 7: Admire the pretty colors that appeared in the negative and the resulting “positive” made from the scan.

I’ve done a little bit of fooling around with extreme overexposure of B&W paper to produce a print from a large negative. Works pretty well but it will bleach back quite a bit in the fixer, even plain hypo. So I’m not going to run this one through the fixer. Just make a good scan and then store the negative in an envelope in the filing cabinet. It will eventually turn a uniform purple-gray color and be lost forever.